Full moon day!  

“Once in a very blue moon ..”. Today is that day.  High tides … beautiful blue sky, warm breezes, green turquoise warm sea …. Sailing on the Indian Ocean.  Wow!

Breakfast on the roof top includes herbal local hibiscus tea, rich and red … soothing and lovely as a breakfast delight. We have seen the flower and plant on our walk about in the area. 

The GAdventures guide (Francois) from South Africa continues to be awesome, even from a distance.  He suggested and connected me with Eliza through WhatsApp for transfers and other tour arrangements as we wish …. 4 days in Zanzibar and she has made excellent suggestions and arrangements for us.  We are five women travelling in this foreign country.  Eliza has been excellent.  

Today we were ready at 830 am for pick up at or Horizon Palace hotel (not fancy, affordable, and adequate for our stay.  Old building with heavy doors, dark wood stairs, no elevator… breakfast and view included off the 6th floor).  

The traffic / parking congestion is quite unbelievable this morning in this very old town … no place to park, not really paved roads, people in Tuk tuks, scooters, bicycles, cars, vans, trucks and tourist vehicles trying to turn around in very small spaces …. We watch in amazement.  

We are driven to Fumba … maybe 12 to 15 kms … allowing us to really see the way people live here … and drive!  Haha

Locally constructed sailing dhows await, fitted with large sailed, outboard motors, marine radios, life jackets, snorkeling equipment, fresh local fruits, soda pop and water keep cold on ice. 

The dhow is anchored and we have to step into the warm sea to board a little shuttle boat to then get on board the dhow.  It is an experience already!!

We are moving through the sea .. gorgeous light green turquoise color … we are provided quality snorkeling gear according to our size.  The skipper cuts the tops off fresh coconut and we all have our own, then chops up the coconut meat for tasting.  Yum. It’s a calm beautiful morning. The sun is hot and high, the breeze is warm and inviting.  

We are invited to jump overboard at the first anchor spot.  Striped fishes, remind me of early life experience with tropical fish in aquarium (zebra black and white, yellow fish … coral of a variety of shapes and textures, finger coral, Cauliflower and broccoli shaped also.  Starfish, urchins …. as if reaching up for us … wow!).  The water was so warm … I was in several times maybe up to two hours in full?  Maybe more.  

At least a half hour to swim around and float in this amazing first experience…. Then back on board and on to the next stop.  More snorkeling…. More floating …. Then a stop at the uninhabited sand bar beach.  It looked pretty big to me as we arrived.  Huge actually.  Lots of other dhow boats anchored and people walking and swimming.  

Then the tide continued to rise … the girls I was with, who were sitting on the beach, had to move up the sand hill as the water was reaching their toes and belongings.  I continued to float around in green clear glorious salty bliss.  When we sailed by the sandbar later in the day it was completely covered in sea … no evidence we had ever been there.  Fascinating.  

The guide advises no jellyfish, no sharks … he is right.  Safe beautifully clear warm water.  Wow. Light turquoise green as far as I can see.  

Another snorkel stop, the guide presented us with two starfish from the bottom and encouraged us to do more snorkeling.  We are anchored again, floating in this warm salty soup water.. everyone taking pictures and swimming in the coral and fish.

We can sail to the green lagoon now, the tide is high enough and rising fast.  Amazing sights, light green water, we can see the bottom.  Dark rugged rock topped with cactus and trees … the shapes are magical and like a fantasy place.

Our destination, more uninhabited island …. Headed for lunch!  We park, we are seated, we have fluffy white rice, vegetarian curry, lobster, shrimp, and other options … ha ha … you can tell which caught my attention!  There are bathroom facilities in a rustic kind of way … drummers and dancers with cultural music … walks along the sandy beach.  Vendors with local items for sale (local from Zanzibar), like a market with a few booths.  

After eating we walk to see the fallen, but still alive, 500 year old baobab tree and taste the fruit that grows from it.  People are invited to climb on the tree.  It’s pretty special!

Back to the dhow boats to begin our sail home.  Large sails are hoisted and the sea winds have picked up so we move along quickly.  Huge splashes over the sides, warm winds, people are tired and dozing.  It’s a beautiful sail back to the main island.  Due to very high tide we are unable to disembark at the same place … so we are anchored In a little cove.  Shuttled on motor boats and helped to walk through the shallow water to some rocky steps and climb out.  We walk a path and meet up with our driver from this morning.  It is about 5 pm when we return to the hotel.

It has been a big day!  We shower and start to relax, we need to pack up tonight and tomorrow fly off to Nairobi.

Good night wonderful loving family and friends …. Till the next post on this Africa adventure …. Stay well!  Wish you were here.

Hugs 

Pamela

We’re meeting this morning at 11 AM to take a boat to Prison island.  It is Wednesday 30 August 2023 and I can hardly remember what day or date it is!  I have been gone almost two weeks, I am disoriented and travelling deep in the heart and soul of Africa.  

Jambo, the locals say, as a greeting here in Zanzibar.  Hakuna Matata means no worries … 

Jomba is our guide.   (His name means uncle) We walk together to the beach not far from our hotel – where we meet our captain. In a very small boat he will take us back and forth to prison island to see the giant tortoises. I have my bathing suit gear in my back pack, excited for this half day adventure.

Initially the seas are calm … unlike yesterday when we saw much higher surf splashing water to the shore and walkways.  Lots of boats going back-and-forth to the island. Lots of container ships and a few islands surrounded by beaches can be seen from our private small boat, a little bigger than a skiff. It seats the 7 of us including captain and guide, comfortably and with good balance.

We observe many many small and medium sized boats – some for hire, some fisher persons… some catamarans, a single solo person atop what looks like a long canoe (alone, standing, navigating the waters, no motor, like a stand up paddle canoe).  

I can see the beautiful white sandy beach ahead and the Prison island where we’re going to spend a few hours today. The colour of the water is beautiful light green turquoise blue, graduating to dark turquoise. Clear and so beautiful.  

Greetings from the local guides as we arrive … “slowly. Slowly”, reminding us to not hurry or rush, take our time.  And “Hakuna matata” Greetings encouraging a slow pace and to enjoy this special place.

There are three names of this island … Prison Island where in 1893 a prison was built.  Within very short time sickness of cholera and yellow fever broke out …the prison idea was abandoned.  It later became a restaurant to bring in tourists.  7 or 8 years ago they stopped that practice and very recently the island was sold privately.  It will become a hotel and restaurant once again to draw travellers to the area.

Another name is Changu Island …. So named for the unique fish in the area.  On the island are also exotic birds, including peacocks and fabulous old trees including the beautiful baobab.

The island also is famous for its home of many giant tortoises.  So it is also referred to as Tortoise Island.  These beautiful hard shelled creatures live to 200 years old, the oldest one we today meet is 150.  They are a giant land tortoise and vegetarian and make their homes on land, seeking water to drink and to rest when it is hot (like elephants they lay in the water nearby and their limbs are deep in the mud giving a cooling sensation).   The female has short tail, are smaller in stature and have more smooth and flat top shell.  The larger males, long tail used for balance and have a more hilly and valley type top shell.  When pregnant, the female digs a hole, plants the eggs and covers the area.  Three months later the young will hatch and climb out of the hole to begin their life here.  Tortoises of all ages live here now, the area is protected, as are the creatures, by the government.  This area is important to tourism in the area.  We are encouraged to feed greenery to the waiting mouths and to gently massage them in the neck, which they love.  Be careful, they can bite.

Moral of todays adventure ….to live a long happy life, be like the tortoise …. Be vegetarian and be very slow. 

I switch to bathing suit and find the sandy beach to enter the Indian Ocean.  The water is clear, warm ish, inviting, wavy and so beautiful and inviting.  I wish I could stay all day.  I watch a few beautiful locals or tourists women jump in the sea fully clothed and laughing.  They then hold hands and laugh so very hard some fall in the surf.  It is touching and sweet to watch the joy and intimacy- and be part of it with them.  

The tide is rapid and our small boat is ready to take us to Zanzibar island …. We must go.  The waves have increased, the seas are saucy and give us a good wet drenching on the way home.  I am exhilarated and love the experience more than I can say.

Out for dinner at the Sunset Bar at Africa House,  close by our hotel … early night.  We have an 8 hour day tomorrow on blue safari (which means journey) exploring the sea, with snorkeling and swimming.  I am so very thrilled.  

What an extraordinary treat!

My South Africa adventure has come to an end ….

Arriving last night at the airport, around 730 pm local time.  My flight was from Johannesburg through Nairobi.  I had planned for me to meetup with 4 women from Victoria area as they were scheduled to fly in around 815 pm.  Also I had arranged a pick up transfer from airport for all five of us.

It is a small airport, only 4 carousels for luggage arrival.  However, many lineups for processing customs, passports and evisas …. All of the lineups take time.  I was through quickly, the other gals later.  

Once we were all processed, we were taken to our hotel, the Horizon Palace.  A two star hotel in StoneTown….. which is the older part of Zanzibar, Tanzania.  Simple, old, 6 flights of solid wooden steps, high ceilings, big doorways, tile and stone, old dark wood, stained glass windows … reminding me of India.  

We got settled in our rooms and quickly prepared for sleep, each bed with bed frames and netting tied back.  Up in the morning, not too early, for breakfast at the rooftop cafe with lovely view of the Indian Ocean and some old town roof tops and steeples.  

After breakfast,we gathered our stuff for a walk. Off to find a currency exchange, some water and explore the beach reaching out to the turquoise water, and boardwalk area along the sea.  We stopped for a beverage at Sunset Bar in Africa House Hotel. We continued along the walk through some local park area and market stalls.  

The manager at our hotel volunteered to arrange a ride for us to find a liquor and grocery store for water and wine.  We enjoyed a simple supper at the restaurant on the roof of our hotel and another early night.  The staff here are friendly and kind to us.  

Tomorrow heading to Prison Island …. Home of giant tortoises and I am hoping for a swim …. The next day a snorkelling adventure …. Stay tuned!  

Here I sit, by the pool in a garden paradise surrounded by exotic palm,ferns and greenery I don’t recognize. I am staying at Umbhaba Eco Lodge outside Hazyview in South Africa not far from Kruger National Park.  Listening to the unfamiliar enchanting birdsong, trickle of waterfall leading to the outdoor unheated pool, distant music unrecognizable yet soothing coming from reception area at the Lodge.  

Today is an optional day – part of GAdventures Kruger in Depth tour.  I have been part of three safari days and lots of driving and experiences since Johannesburg a week ago.  Today I select for quiet, apart from the group, to read, relax, recover, rest, dip leisurely in the pool and catch up to my life.

If anyone asks what I did today,I might reply with “nothing”. I slept in, woke up to the rhythm of my own knowing (not alarm), gathered some laundry to send out …. Had a hot gentle breakfast carefully prepared so that I can heal my glutened insides, with a cup or two of rooibus tea, fresh squeezed orange juice, lemon water to replenish my liquids. 

When on safari with 12 to 15 others, there is limited and unpredictable toilet stops, so I carefully calculate and limit liquid intake.  I must be careful and observant of others sharing the vehicle, duck and get out of the way of the serious photographers, listen to stories, be ever watchful for signs of animals as we are in their homeland, and we are here to observe that life.  Unfamiliar, at times uncomfortable and certainly unpredictable and exciting moments. The mind and body alert. 12 or more hours spent away from comfort for the purpose of this unusual enjoyment.

Nothingness today is to let down all these expectations and social appropriateness.  To have zero agenda for what seems like, unlimited hours on end … catching up on drinks of water, dipping in the pool, looking over recently taken photographs, listening without knowing, no attachment or opinion about stories.  Almost no internet connection, slightly intermittent at best.  Nothingness feels like self care, self attention, self kindness, even self indulgence.  

I have many more days coming of tours, travel, flights, taking-reviewing-posting photos,Re reading texts, enjoying tasty meals, navigating awkward moments, packing, unpacking, feeling disorganized and confused, hiking on unfamiliar and uneven landscape, listening to books on Audible, checking Facebook, looking for common ground and finding friendly kind connections, sunrises and sunsets, moon viewing in night skies, solo mindful moments and walks with others, open air vehicle safari, meaningful and trivial talks, managing heat in Africa, writing my thoughts to post on this blog, sending and receiving love and gratitude with dear family and friends back home and abroad, and other activities.  

Today, nothing seems like everything I need so I can keep doing the other things ever growing on my list …. 

Stay tuned

With love

Pamela in South Africa

This morning, greeted again with that wonderful red orange ball of a sun … we had a light breakfast and walking tour for three hours, about 5 kms.  Stopping briefly to learn about local culture, trees,termites and critters.  It was great to go on a long walk.  

Back at lodge for brunch, an hour swim in the pool to cool down.  FYI – the pools here are not heated and very refreshing and mostly I swim by myself.  Today, Manon and a few others participated… it was nice.

Lunch followed, the lodge staff are taking very good care of my food needs.  It is lovely. The manager is really lovely too.

After lunch all aboard the bus to Kruger National Park where we divided up to go on Jeep safari. Wow … front row seat to all the amazing animals in this part of the world!  Elephant, giraffe, buffalo, hippo, zazu bird, doves, baboon, crocodile, impala, nyala, zebra, sun rise and spectacular sun set skies.  Wow…. Just wow!  

We arrived back from Safari and greeted to a fine dining experience in a cave … lit with glass jars, barbecue and salad.  Early to bed,full day safari tomorrow and we change lodges.  Staying at the next one for three nights … yay!

(I am posting lots of pictures on facebook. They are so slow to upload with this weak wifi in our tent)

https://www.travelpulse.ca/news/tour-operators/travelpulse-on-scene-south-africa-with-g-adventures

Good night my loves, my family and great friends.  Sleep well.  Miss you all and wish you were here!  

It’s about 6 am outside the Airport Game Lodge watching the large orange ball of the sun rise in the distance. We are gathering at the bus heading out 615 in the morning heavy traffic outside of Johannesburg it’ll pass and then will be on less travelled roads.

We had breakfast this morning of eggs, fruit, yogurt and beans for me. Refilled water bottles, dropped off room keys by 5:30 am, ready, bags packed at the van by 10 to 6.  We are running a little bit behind but it’s anticipated to be a 12 hour travel day , certainly not all the roads are going to be like highway. I will keep on reporting as we move through the day.

Later:

It’s after lunch now and we’re back on the road. We’re off the big toll highway. In South Africa the main highway is 3000 km long.  

We had a beautiful lunch in the outdoor seating area and we’re served food in the shade of a tree.  It is very scenic. 

Now we’re on the road with first real significant wildlife sighting a bunch (Google says it is a Congress) of baboons just ran across the road. Some look like they had little baboons on their backs and they ran fast so no picture.  Probably a dozen or 20 of them.  

It’s about 2 o’clock in the afternoon and we’ve been on the road since 6 o’clock this morning with 4 stops so far, mostly driving.

Our guide François was telling us about a tree called the upside down tree, Baobab.  It looks like the roots are sticking out above the ground and the story is that when God created the Earth, he gave each animal an opportunity to plant a particular kind of tree. Which one of the monkeys – chose to plant that tree upside down. 

A lot of very interesting looking trees – very different than we would have back home. Some beautiful trees here in Africa, many of them have nests.  

There are some shacks along the side of the road made out of tin and a lot of poor people, or workers who are here from elsewhere – Other countries that come here to work – stay in rent one of those little shacks, and then they send all their money that they make back home.  

We have arrived at Awelani Lodge where we will stay two nights.  A lot of the gals have requested their own rooms so there is a bit of a shuffle.  We are shown our accommodations- Manon and I have tent number 8. Very adequate, private,quiet.  I head for a swim in the pool.  After – a nice shower and get to know the geiko that lives atop the bathroom door … we call him George!  Later we spy a large rain spider … if it is down on floor it is not going to rain … but our spider is on the roof above my bed …. Francois came and escorted it out the door using our cup and saucer.  

We had happy hour and off to dinner with the group.  Now back in our tent.  Early morning safari walk then afternoon safari drive …. For now … good night George.  Good night my family and friends.  More tomorrow

It’s morning and I must have slept. Some of the other girls say the sounds of the night were wild … howling, maybe wolves?  Peacocks on the roof.  Some kind of antelope this morning out my window could be seen from my bed.  The sun was already up when I woke, brightly pouring light into my cute little adequate room.  One of the gals I met, who will be a good travel buddy, decided to pay for a private room for tonight again so split the cost of that so we can stay in our little solo rooms for a second night.  What extravagance!  Maybe $15 extra.  

Everything in South Africa costs much less it seems …. Well maybe not everything,but water and accommodation etc.  we paid and shared the cost for transfer last evening.  It was less than we would have paid at home but more than others are paying using Uber to arrange rides.  Note to others coming here, Uber maybe the way to go.  And if you want food delivered as not near restaurant… Uber eats.  I don’t currently use Uber but highly recommended by some of the travel gals here. You don’t exchange money … you do it through an app and the whole experience is tracked by you.  Interesting and probably useful to try.  Certainly much cheaper.

4 of us had breakfast (included) then relaxed and planned a quick trip to a mall as one gal needed new shoes.  Off we went.  Not at all recommended to go into  Johannesburg by the lodge staff.  So we did not. 

Dropped my travel clothes at the office to get laundered for about $2 CAD.  Took an Uber to the mall.  While I was gone my room was cleaned, my clothes are back clean and folded.  The air is warm (not hot) and sun is out … mid afternoon here and I went swimming in the outdoor pool. It is cold water from the tap, no heater … ha ha and cold here at night.  So it was fresh for me, but much warmer than ocean dipping so kind of a treat.  No one else would venture in and would not even let their feet dangle as they said it is too cold …. Hmmmmm

Then lovely shower, and decided to write this.  In an hour I will go meet the group, then we all go to barbecue dinner together, apparently nearby.  

I found out the transfer to airport on 28 August is complimentary… so I will be doing that and then fly out to my next destination.  For now …. Trying to stay present and notice the bird song and animals around me.  Ostrich, antelope, deer, peacocks … I have seen them all so far, all living around the edges of our park like setting.  A list of birds that frequent the area.  I highly recommend this place.  It feels safe and wild, clean, affordable, local and far away from the bustle of big city or airport.  

Exotic and beautiful.  Looking forward to Kruger National Park tomorrow…. 

• 
  be as present as I can, as often as I can. To notice.
• Breathe, walk, be gentle with my self and others I am with
• Be openly curious about this place, whatever place I am in.  Try to suspend judgement and assumptions.  
• Always be friendlier and kinder than how I am greeted.  
• Be with nature, listen to the sounds and take pictures. Stop to notice sun and moon movements 
• Write for myself and share with family and friends to follow

ARRIVED JOHANNESBURG 

It is late now here in South Africa.  Just after midnight local time.  I have arrived and staying two nights at Airport Game Lodge.  So far I saw a rabbit.  Lol.  First night in my own room ….. which is cute and cozy, clean and nice to be done flying!  I am off to sleep soon … meeting the tour folks tomorrow…. Stay tuned.  I have mostly been in airports or planes for more than 30 hours so it’s nice to see nature, even though it is dark outside.  Tomorrow I will post something more exciting I am sure.  

EARLIER TODAY …

Last evening, between the ferry from Vancouver Island and  the early morning flight out of Vancouver, a magical conversation happened.

I am a member of the Western Canada Online club of Soroptimist International of the Americas.  I was staying with a friend who introduced me to  Soroptimist years ago.  On this evening she made a call and connected me with a woman, fellow Soroptimist, from Kenya who is currently in Canada.  Joined with intention to share friendship. Khayanga and I shared common and different stories of inspiring women and girls around the world.  A fine connection.  I asked her thoughts on the Barbie movie and was delighted we shared very similar views of some deeper meaning mixed with entertaining scenes.  Layers of thoughtful nuanced and more obvious scenes, a revolutionary film for our time.  I recommend it. I learned about her camp for girls and young women in leadership.  She will introduce me to and connect me with some other women in Africa for the time I am here.  Women holding hands around the world …my vision, my why.

There are movies on this long nine to ten hours flight.  And there is this …. Just this.  Jon Kabat-Zinn master class on mindfulness.  Starting at the top …. Here are some learnings, some matterings… some of what he says. -There are a lot of doors into the very same room.  – I will pour energy into what’s right with me. – I am the curriculum starting from exactly where I am now. Mindfulness / wakefulness is way of being …. awareness, pay attention, on purpose in the present moment.  Be in the present – here and now and be non judgmental about the judgement.  Caring about myself enough to not contract into wanting or not wanting.  Liberate from likes and dislikes.  In a friendly way.  Non-doing. How things are.  Develop a quality of patience.  Not try to push the river.  No where to go.  – Healing is not curing.  Healing is to embrace how things are.  Suffering is driven by self-diminishing narrative stories.  Beginners mind, “don’t know” mind.  Power of not knowing. 

Listening to Elizabeth Gilbert …Big Magic.  On and off with a timer to guide my mind and to let go of being awake.  Brene Brown, Atlas of the Heart series exploring emotions and connection. 

That is all for now …. Time to sleep. Here is my cute resting spot at Airport Game Lodge outside of Johannesburg, South Africa