16 night East Africa in Depth. Kenya tour.  1 to 16 September 2023. GAdventures

We stayed overnight at Heron Portico hotel in Nairobi. Our flight from Tanzania, Zanzibar was 5 hours delayed. We spent the time sitting in the very small airport lobby. Frustrated at times from the lack of communication and clarity, a good practice in patience. 

We grabbed a taxi from Nairobi airport to the hotel. It felt kind of different to be in such a big city, real roads paved and lots of traffic. Very different from Zanzibar’s Stone Town of very small broken alleys and extremely bumpy and irregular walkways. I have very challenging lack of sense of direction so never really knew where I was as we walked about the town / village and beach area. 

The Heron promised a very much more upscale hotel than the Horizon Palace we left. Modern amenities, real shower and tub, two twin beds and a restaurant downstairs. We were in 1403 on the 4th floor. We met the GAdventures group we are going to spend the next 8 or 16 days with and the CEO, John. 

Up early to pack and have breakfast before sunrise. We loaded into the 7 passenger Land Rover safari vehicle, gold in color, the top raises up so passengers can stand to take photos. 

Driving down the road in Kenya since 7 AM this morning we left Nairobi 715. It’s getting dry outside and dryer. Hot equator sun. Lots of stretches of flat grassland and a few sparse trees. 

The animals we see along include goats and sheep some cows a herd of camels cross the road.  I see up to 4 dogs during the drive. We saw none in South Africa or Zanzibar – Stone Town had lots of feral cats. 

 We see people walking along the road, children out of school, adults carrying sticks, bicycles and motorcycles with multi passenger at once. Up to 4 on one seat. 

Apparently big companies pay to paint homes as a form of advertising – it costs more to live by the road or highway. Unemployment is high. People sell water bottles, rice, fruit, vegetables and in market stalls more products including clothes.  

It’s very hot and dry, twisters of sand can be seen in the distance – silt lifting up from the ground. I asked her guide John, when and how often it rains and he said he can’t remember the last time it rained here.   Very sparse trees, mostly golden coloured ground. Scenery includes a few shrubs, sticks, mountains in the distance at times. We see women walking, dressed in saris, carrying things on their head, and infant children on their backs. School age kids go to school three months of the year get three weeks off then school for three more months and three weeks off …. three months holiday = so school is nine months long. 

There is cloud cover in the distance this morning so we could not see mount Kenya right now, maybe on the way back. Important crops corn / mais, rice and coffee. 

When we get close to a town or a village, there are rumble strips and speed bumps on the main road to keep the speed down I guess to protect people who are crossing the road 

Reminiscent of India, whole families on motorcycles today I saw up to four adults on one motorcycle seat. I see people tending herds of goats and sheep some cows.

We see a herd of camels being shepherded. The guide caution us not to take photos of this tribe of people, they can get angry and throw stones at us. 

Many unfinished buildings, homes, rentals. People have a bit of money to start building then wait 4-5 years until they can do the next floor. 

The bathrooms are both infrequent, and unpleasant for my standards. 

We are heading to Samburu national park (104 sq km) and part is a long a river where the animal go to drink. We hopefully will see some along that area. 

We also stop at Samburu Village to meet the people and have an opportunity to buy things at their Village market .  I am not a fan of this outing. It was very uncomfortable and felt exploitative and complicated and unpleasant. So tonight around the table. After most people had gone to bed the guide John asked me what my thoughts were so I told him it’s important to be a good ancestor, to be truthful and authentic Every day that’s possible I try to speak my truth. It’s not always comfortable. 

Two hours in the park. Driving on safari and viewing animals in their habitat. The park roads are dirt, dry sand, grass, more dirt and dust. This is what I expected of Safari in Africa!! 

Exciting, exhilarating grateful, rewarding and satisfyinseeing the animals, giraffe elephant, impala, warthog ostrich, zebra. Some of my favourites!!

Later!!!

Hey, we are now at the campsite I get what I asked for ha ha … sounds of the night.

 I’m alone in a tent on a foamy on the ground in Africa in a wildlife park in Kenya alone in the night. I can hear the birds I can see the bats I’m just gonna put on some lighter clothes after outdoor shower … and then we’re going to meet for dinner it’s 10 to 7. This is some kind of wild trip.  Rustic. Basic. Exotic. Adventure. 

Later:  sleeping under the stars in a tent in Kenya in Africa, I cannot imagine more quiet …. it is dark. The moon is big and white. The stars are plentiful in the sky.  I expected sounds of animals, I can’t hear any.  There are no fences around this campsite in this national park. Baboons are roaming around the campsite. 

I am grateful for today to see the animals, get out of the city to enjoy this camping experience in my own tent. I am so fortunate for the way this turned out. I had a shower outside in a tent. It was incredible and felt like freedom.

Today we saw, zebra elephant, giraffe, ostrich, impala, lion, warthog, exotic birds, beautiful trees, nests. It was a great day to be on safari in Kenya.

Good night we are going on an early morning safari tomorrow. We have no Wi-Fi tonight. I will sleep good night.

Day two Samburu Park safari

Wow. This is an amazing day – already!!!

I spy Baboons in tent site!!! Off to brush my teeth and meet the group. 

On the road at 6:45, no breakfast for me. 

We have amazing adventure seeing wild animals- including Dikdik (very small deer like critter a bit bigger than a rabbit), Giraffe, Lioness chasing impala, Cheetah family of mom and 4 cubs chase down dikdik and they eat in field while we watch. We stop for a Giraffe herd in distance. Wow!! 12 safari vehicles watching.  

More driving on Red Sandy dry roadways   … Overland. Bumpy. Rustic. Dusty. Fantastic exhilarating. Remarkable.

We see  Red billed Hornbill bird, Elephant herd with babies, beisa 

Oryx Herd. Impala harem (One male. Many female).  Gerenuk. (Giraffe antelope). White cattle egrets around elephant feet eating insects as they step down. 

Reticulated giraffe. Secretary bird is an osprey. Guinea fowl. More Zebra. 

Big bunch of olive baboons. Can be found Only in this park. Black face monkey sitting in the tree watching us. One of the baboons get into someone’s tent and takes medication. Important to keep the zippers closed 🙂

We are back to camp for lunch and a rest. Heading out again at 4 pm for evening Safari. I will rest a while 

No wifi. Only electricity at the kitchen so a few of us are plugged in. 

Third safari, day 2 Samburu National park, Kenya

Out at 400 pm for last Safari of the day, on the other side of the river. Spectacular 

Lions, giraffe, elephant and chasing elusive leopard. Back at 630 after the huge yellow ball sun dips below horizon. 

Time for outdoor shower, dinner, conversation. Bed. 

Good night. 

Travel day to lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Long hot day in Land Rover with a few stops for washroom, water, lunch and I stop at the equator for a visual presentation on the water in the north going clockwise the water in the south going counterclockwise down a drain as shown to us by a person employed at the store where we had lunch.  It’s hot. Lunch was provided by our chef who travels with us through GAdventures tour. 

We left at 6:30 this morning from Sambora national park and drove through the park looking for wildlife . 

We were able to see Mt Kenya off the road on our drive today. We stopped to take pictures of the vegetation now where we are in the middle of the afternoon, 2 o’clock. We will be arriving at destination at five. The vegetation now along the road is much more lush and green with trees even forests, the accommodations en route are more plentiful and luxurious…. More like driving through Alberta farmland  with occasional farm houses. 

Along this drive, they grow coffee, tea, corn, and wheat. Pineapple citrus fruit. Bananas

It looks like it might rain a few drops. 

We stop at an organized Tea plantation where they grow both black tea and arabica coffee. The tea was first Introduced in this area in 1920. They Grow the plants from cuttings as it is faster. Only takes 3 years for tea to grow from the cutting to be useful. It would take much longer from seed.

Arrival at the new tent site is greeted with mostly negative reviews from my travel group who were hoping for a hotel type lodge instead of a rustic camping adventure. A difficult evening adjusting. 

A dinner. A shower. Repacking. Sorting laundry. Now time for bed. A huge day tomorrow full of Safari drive starting at 7 am. 

Night night. 

Day 1 safari on Lake Nakuru 

We woke up in a campsite. Having slept in the tent overnight. We will also stay again tonight. Today will be a full day Safari.  Leaving by 715 am. 

One of the women workers offered to do laundry for a fee. Yay!  Looking forward to fresh clothes again. Haha. They will wash and hang on line. 

We are staying in shared tents. The food is great and the chef is trying hard to keep me healthy. It’s cool to travel  with a chef of our own! 

Zebra herd is seen first. Then grand gazelle. Impala. Pemba warthog. Waterbuck. Water Buffalo. Lion pride. 2 makes. Female. Cubs. Herons. Hornbills. Stork. Rhinoceros with baby. PINK FLAMINGOS. Giraffes with white feet. Baboons.  Ibis. Maribor stork. Spoon billed. Egyptian geese. Fish eagle. Waterbuck. Black face monkey. Hippo. Giant common eland antelope. 

Quick stop to mail postcards to grandsons and daughter. 

Back to flamingos. Heron. Stork. Pelican. Egret.  Cormorant. Love love the birds on the water and shore of alkaline lake. I could spend all day here.  Just watching the peaceful lake water.  The dance of variety of birds. I wish to make a quilt of africa and I would feature this day, these birds. 

Alkaline lake causes trees nearby to die and turn grey. 

We stop a few times for necessary bathroom breaks. Looking forward to lunch. We will be back on the road tomorrow to the final park. 

Afternoon lake Nakuru natl park

Black white colobus monkey up tree

Zebra waterbuck. Baboons. 

Water buffalo.   monkeys 

On route to Maasai Mara, Kenya

Packed up and ready by 630 am. Leaving our tent site at Lake Nakuru. It was rustic. It rained. The morning is clear, cool and not raining. Yay. Breakfast included potatoes and omelet with fruit on side. Warm and satisfying and good preparation for the travel and safari day ahead. 

I took a photo of the sunrise and dew covered cactus. And away we go ….

Up and up mountain road. Many places washed out with big holes. 

Kids walking to school. Little ones waving enthusiastically on rural country roads. In the small towns workers waiting to be selected so they can pick potatoes or corn for the day. 

Maasai people 

Eat goat. Cows. Buy veg.purchase only

Must wear red blanket as top males

Giraffe zebra baboon. So far just getting to our accommodations. Will have more photos later. 

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