Old Delhi, still assaults my memory

Old Delhi, an explosion and assault on all the senses.  
Breathe. Loud and smelly, fast paced, hard working labour of men carrying heavy loads down narrow alleys in the wholesale market, animals including dogs sleeping, piglets rooting through refuse between car tires, and cows with right of way and holding their ground, colourful fruits and produce, grey and dirty roadways littered with debris and years of garbage left to sit… Spices, rice, nuts, flowers on display in burlap bags in small doorways.  
Breathe. Beep beep sounds of tuktuks and small cars, motorcycles passing each other on left and right. Bicycles jutting in and out. Large trucks squeezing in to small spaces, taking time to unload and reload wares. Smoggy grey air, toxic to breathe, many people with masks and or scarves tied around their mouths to filter the smells in the thick air.  
Breathe. Trying not to touch anything .. The walls look sticky and dirty, cracked and old … The walking surface makes you glad of closed toed shoes …. Puddles of unimaginable liquids to step over, and feces piles. Uneven surfaces of stone and curbs, and people. 
Breathe. People, people … Poor homeless faces, disfigured bodies, women clutching babies and begging for food, young children not shy about asking for money, trying to take our hands. We have been cautioned to hold tight to our bags, not give to beggars as people who do get swarmed by unlimited number of needy ones. So hard on the heart. 

 Breathe again.  
Enormous Indian flag can sometimes be seen from the hotel through the thick smog in Delhi. The struggle of India!

Namaste, 
Breathe, 
Pamela

Highlights of India north and south, part two

Chinese fishing nets only in the south in Kerala. Spectacular sites. An ancient fishing practice still used today for business and feeding the people from nature.
Textures of luxurious and lustrous silks, pashmina, linen, yak, camel, cotton, and Kashmir and the mixes and blends. Oh and the colours … Paisley and pattern, simple and complex, hand woven and needle work embellishment, .. Khadi, unique one of a kind, or mass produced. Billowing outside shops, worn on ladies in grand fashion, folded in flat plastic bags and stacked on shelves, hundreds deep.
Shiny black cormorants perched solo on top of stick or bamboo poles in water lakes and rivers. Snowy white egrets in green rice paddy fields or perched on lily pads. Great herons soaring over. Small exotic birds flitting in the trees, branch to branch, flower to flower. Owls, bats, crows, vultures, Eagles flying, sitting, hunting, watching. Tweeting, twirping, chirping, squalking, hooting, cawing and howling. Waking us to early morning echoes in the jungle trees.  
Men’s long and short skirts out of white cotton with coloured woven trims and tied at the waist. Sometimes in plaids and colours. Perhaps cooler in the heat in the south. Riding bicycles. Walking along roadways. Working in the fields, tending flocks and fishing in boats. Bathing in the river.  
Two wheeled bicycles and motorcycles on roadways, no room for a road shoulder here! TukTuk weaving in and out of traffic and giving way to 4 wheeled vehicles. Cars give way to trucks. Trucks to large buses. The constant honk honk indicating a pass, left or right side, look out on busy roads .. No traffic lights, or not many … Pedestrians give way to vehicles. No rules of the road for drivers. Have your wits about you. Driving is a skill and we appreciate our driver.
Authentic spicy, delicious, gluten free, dairy free, vegetarian tasty delights. Dosa, biryanis, garlic chutney, pappadams, curries, tandoor roasted vegetables. Menus with interesting name of drinks and foods, exotic and fun. Sometimes the language translation makes me chuckle. Spices we ate … masala, biryani, saffron, vindaloo.  
Merely a counter and window on the street for wine and beer purchases. Sometimes down an alley, no place to park .. 

Pharmacy, the same, with inexpensive cures for sale . 
Camel shoes, curly toes and bright colours, at local markets. Vendors will bargain for “best price”, “special price for you”! The women on our northern trip sitting on the floor in a doorway at a fabulous Trident hotel … Trying on and purchasing many bangles of colour and sparkle. 
 The silk scarf extravaganza in a hotel store where the vendor sat cross legged in a sea of silken colour and soft texture pulling more and more scarves from somewhere and all of us clutching to our chests our favourite one, two, three …. Lol. Some 70 scarves bought that night, all silk multicolour with contrasting cotton thread design.
Walking by countless, endless small fires on the sidewalks in Delhi .. For keeping warm and cooking, some for homeless, some for business purposes. Filling the air with scent. Other smells in Delhi, I can still recall the burning in my nostrils even from weeks ago. My clothes in my suitcase have a strong smell of India as I pack to come home.  
Men peeing against wall, on side of roads, our front of homes and businesses … At first it seems so odd. We get used to the sight. Strong odour of urine reaches our noses as we walk through old Delhi. I spy a sign indicating “no urinating on this wall”.  
Palm and coconut tree leaves are just so big and bright!  
Children treated us like deity, and famous, …they want their pictures taken with us…. Even adults often asked if we would pose for pictures with one or more of the members of a couple or group.  They took keen interest in our story, where we are from …. Etc.
Camels are enormous animals up close, and when we had a ride on the sand dunes, it seemed to take forever to get up… Very difficult to maintain balance.  

I would say that was true of all of the India experience … Maintaining a sense of balance and presence was important and required mindfulness, breathing and acceptance.  
Namaste to family and friends, 

Pamela on route home from India, the first time.
Xoxox

Highlights of India, part one 

Good morning, Namaste on the last day of Indian vacation
Today as I pack and repack my suitcase, I am reflecting on the past 27 days of my vacation in India.  
My number one highlight of this month is:  
Sarees, bright and cheery, colours colours everywhere breaking up the grey landscape of the countryside and smoggy skies of big cities.  
Women working alone in the fields or walking along roadways with heavy loads, or holding hands of dear children … Or riding side saddle on back of motorcycles.  
Women everywhere in beautiful outfits. With bangles and decorations, jewels, painted colour on their forehead.  
Women in house dresses can be seen on our walks through neighbourhoods and they always dress sharply and in matching or contrasting bright colours and flowy fabrics when out and about. No matter if working in an upscale hotel resort or sweeping dust at the temple, tending gardens or getting groceries, women in India are beautiful and dress attracting attention.
Arches, unique and everywhere in northern India, architecture reveals art and history. Pillars, minarets, doorway arches, steps, furniture, and walls carved with stories of times and glories past. Bricks and columns, carved and intricate. The Jain temple, the fortresses and palaces of Royals.  
Little short trucks putt putting along the roadways with often heavy loads of people and or cargo. Looking like they will topple over or bend with the weight of their load. Friendly faces of workers catching a ride, waving to us, foreigners. Do they think we are celebrities? Are we? 
Four to seven canoes hitching a ride with one that has a motor, saving and sharing in costs of fuel, economy of connection to community.
Fresh colourful fruit and veggie trucks and carts, bright and tasty foods to sell. Wagons loaded and either pushed or pulled by people or livestock. Or standing in rest and waiting to sell. I purchased easy to peel juicy oranges and varieties of bananas … many times .. First time was old Delhi on day two, with assistance, to push through my comfort zone. More easily thereafter. Always with joy to leave my money with the vendor.
Welcoming drinks (rose water, fresh coconut, mango juice, Mountain Dew), flowers (roses, jasmine, marigold) and bindis in exotic hotels and sacred places. Colourful marks on my forehead, reds, yellows, gold, silver, pink. Large cooking bowls, now filled with water and floating flower petals, water lilies, and lotus flowers.  
Meditation and mindfulness practice, prayer and chanting, feeling blessed … Moved to tears in the pooja ceremony in the north. Breathe. I still have the red and yellow thread tied to my left wrist… As I am a married woman. If never married, then the right wrist was the place to see the coloured string. The flower petals, white rice, salt / sugar crystals, vermillion and yellow powder, whole coconut … The offering to the river after repeating the mantra / chant. While sitting on the ghat on that memorable day. Forever changed.  
Namaste, stay tuned for more highlights!,
Pamela of India, today at airport in Paris France on way home 🙂
Happy Valentines Day

Sights and sounds of the south

Sights and sounds of the south
This morning, in the jungles of south India, Kerala, I am awake and listening to the sweet songs of nature. Soft whistles of birds, tweets, and squawks … Twitters and calls. Hoots, strong and solid. Almost giggles and whistle words. Distant and close up. Rhythmic, playful and repeated, I hear communications of the wild.  
The trees surrounding this cabin in the jungle are teeming with sounds, stories and songs of the birds that live here. Outside in the fantastic bathroom area, open roof over the shower I can see many varieties of these song birds. One is very tiny, maybe 1.5 inches long, iridescent turquoise blue wings and face on black breast with medium long beak also black. It shines in the early morning light and stands out against the tree branch it rests upon. Nervous like a hummingbird, short abrupt movements, skittish.
Off to breakfast, two days and nights left till I begin my trek home. The adventure has been amazing. I highly recommend all of the places I have stayed and the sights I have seen… It is an unbelievable and exquisite trip ….
Namaste
Pamela

Fish market and Emerald Isle: south India, Kerala dreaming

It’s fish market day! Everyday …like Wall St trading!  
A few of us accepted the offer to meet at 645 am to walk to the town for the fish auction. We take the large canoe boat ferry over to the mainland from our private island resort. Walking along quietly through the village on a walk pathway, enjoying the busy sights of women with large metal containers on their heads, on the way to market to get the best fish … A few bicycles with young children also riding to market.  
I am reminded about the story of Jack and the Beanstalk as I see a young boy, maybe 8-10 years old pitching rocks and doddling along the path. Did his mom send him with some change to buy fish for supper? I wonder …..
Fishermen are out early 5 or 6 am to catch fresh fish for the auction / market. Of course all day there is fishing activity as well, but this daily auction is truly a community event.  
In to the central market area we walk .. … Fish still flopping. Some laying on tarps, many just in piles on the ground. Hundreds of piles! This is truly a big event! I am so surprised and delighted by the sense of community. It sounds like Wall Street must, bidders and auctioneers at every pile and mostly women purchasing, turning away when they don’t like the price, leaning in when they are pleased. She acknowledges when the price is right, a sale is made.  
I offered to pay 500 rupees to purchase some fish, give to woman for her and her family. Never been offered before, I am told. The tour leader and guide understand my offer but can not figure out how to make it work. They explain how this system and process is self sufficient. I keep my rupees. 🙂
On the far side of the market, there is the same woman, re-selling her fish at a slight profit for lesser amounts, wrapped now in newspaper for individuals for their homes. Also for sale, spices for fish curries, vegetables, fruits and tapioca from the back of a cart or TukTuk. The whole town is here! It was truly a sight to behold!
On the walk back we stop at a coconut tree. Every stage of coconut on one tree. Every 45 days – different portion is ready to harvest. 
Our next adventure is to ride a houseboat all afternoon, 4.5 hours! We see and ask questions of different things ….
From shells of mussels the locals make white powder used for cement … And white paint. Decorate with it … They sell it at the market. People come to your house and collect the shells, and take it to central area where the powder is manufactured. Money exchange is complete.  
Simple, self sufficient are words that come to mind to describe the economy of this area.  
People do their laundry on rocks in the evening, hang their sarees and miles of fabric on a clothes line. House dresses worn at home, dress in saree for day time activities away from home.  
On road again. Alleppy also known as Alappuzha, which means land between sea and river that flows in to it. Famous boat race on huge dragon boat type vessels with 100 rowers per boat. Famous also for fluffy rice. Allepy Is below sea level. Wet lands. Rice bowl of Kerala. Black, red, white … Rice. 25 percent of rice of Kerala grown here in Allepy. 

Ninety percent of backwater islands are man made from muds of the river bed and imported bricks. Much of the land is below sea level and the locals have to rebuild their houses when monsoon season happens.  
No overweight men are seen so far in India, likely due to the manual labour we see in rural areas and even in the cities. Men wearing short and long versions of wraps, and are seen to wash in river, still in their wraps. Women have no head cover here. Some carry umbrellas to keep off the hot sun. Still dressed in colourful sarees during daytime and while at work in the fields.  
“Indian people have less toilets than mobile phones in this country..” our guide, Sanjay informs us. Lol. We see satellite dishes on top of very basic homes … Thatched roofs, palm leaves to keep out the rain in monsoon season.
We travel over 30 kms today in a straw thatched roof houseboat. Laying on a mattress in the front, watching the fabulous green jungle life float by. Looking up to the huge palm leaves of the coconut tree. Huge herons, snowy white egrets and black shiny cormorants. Heads of men fishing in the waters, dropping down and popping up with their catch of the day. Women washing clothes, the slap slap slap of fabric on the smooth rocks. Still other women washing dishes and pots on the river bank, standing on rock shelves. Rice patty fields as far as the eye can see on the other side of homes, and coconut palm trees.  
Peaceful and slow, we meander up stream further and further from our vehicle and luggage. We have day packs and overnight clothes with us for an exotic cooking demonstration, meal and home stay.  
Cremations do take place for Hindu families, along this river, using holy ghats in front of church and temple lands. Other people prefer to be buried. 
The youngest son gets the house and has to look after parents. This homestead been in the family for 150 years. 15 years as guest house, before, rice patty farming was source of income.  
We enjoy a drink from the outside flower of nutmeg and sugar boiled to a tea mixture and served cold and frothy as we hear about his home and the history. Then outside for a walk about to see and photograph the orchids, black pepper, nutmeg and allspice plants among many more. Then a cooking demonstration of a few vegetarian Indian dishes.  
We are then shown to our rooms. It takes my breath away… Golden pillows and bedding, an outdoor covered bathroom and shower and separate outdoor patio area. We have a spacious living area and the air conditioning is on and the place is cool. Heavenly. We have an hour and a half till dinner made special by the home stay hosts.  
I love the red silk woven carpet on the floor, the heavy dark wood doors, elephants and peacock brass decorations and lotus flower adorning our front door. A gracious welcome and an extraordinary experience. Thank you, thank you, thank you.  
Namaste.  
Ps. If I could I would have an outdoor bathroom like the one in our suite, and live in a place where that was practical! It is pure decadence! Www.emeraldislekerala.com. Check it out! Extraordinary!  

Wow. South India 

INTERESTING INDIA: impressions of the South
Green, lush, floral, hot, sticky, fragrant colourful flowers, coconuts. Flowers, huge umbrella trees. Beautiful colourful sarees, men in wrap skirts- some short, some long … Not as many turbans here… Due to heat?  
I see fresh fruits and veggies on corner market portable stands along side of the roadways … Colourful and tasty, red round pomegranate, green and yellow, big and small bananas, oranges, apples, mango and so many more. Grapes, cucumbers, tomatoes, ginger ….
Jungle sounds can be heard whenever I stop to listen. Foliage large and green, with blossoms and fruit hanging …. Abundance!  
Palm trees. Brilliant coloured sarees even in city. Men and women driving motorcycles. Woman riding sidesaddle if on the back. Yesterday I saw for the first time, a woman driving a motorcycle in her saree with scarf bellowing behind and a man on the back, side saddle. Often I see man driving, woman on back and up to three children squeezed between them:). 
Along the drive I see a vibrant river out the window … A spectacular view, with houseboats, and jungle greenery … Small fishing vessels … Exquisite to see. I absolutely love this extreme … 
We stopped for beer and bananas .. Two stops. First we had to stop several times for directions to a store that sells beer. It is not often found in Kerala region apparently. This is the richest area of all India and it is trying to be alcohol free. Interesting process to watch.  
Three large beers purchased for the three people on the bus wanting a cool beverage this evening. One each.  
Then a fruit stand along the side of the road for bananas right off the branch. Omg. Soft and green and lovely tasting, sweet and firm inside. Some picked up oranges from the next stand. Large water 30 rupees, 60 cents is about the exchange. Fun adventure in the jungle!  
Along the way I also spy a snowy white egret and some interesting birds. Flocks of baby ducks being herded along the road … Must have been more than thirty tiny ducks in a puddle, man who is herding them with a plastic bag on end of a stick brushing them along. Cute!
We arrived at the end of a road, a stop sign. We park and all our luggage is moved to a power boat .. And we are boarded on to a lovely long boat with padded seats, open to the air and with a grass cover overhead for in rainy times. We will adventure to our resort and arrive by this vessel.
About a half hour boat ride and we arrive on a private island on the largest lake in Kerala. Amazing, spectacular … Unbelievable! An Ayurvedic spa retreat center also a hotel … Made up of cabins and buildings, restaurant, swimming pool … Wow. We are greeted with leis of scented jasmine flowers and roses .. And a fresh coconut drink, still in the coconut! Little umbrella on top, and straw to drink the refreshing beverage. Not sweetened, not iced, non alcohol … Just the milk from the coconut.  
We are shown to our rooms, and take many photos of the one person ferry canoes shuttling people around from this resort to their homes on the network of tributaries and side rivers.  
A spa treatment is arranged, overall body massage in medicated oils, including face massage and head, neck, shoulders … Lovely. Then treated to the highlight of the day, an hour ride down the tributaries to the local community, in four long and locally made and one man paddled, canoes.
I am speechless. The sounds and sights I will remember always. Exotic, colourful, happy, jungle homes, people smiling and waving … 
I think people in India must think we are good luck? All day we have been welcomed and greeted by locals in especially friendly ways.
We even see a game of cricket being played by some young men along the river on a flat piece of cleared land in the jungle.  
Then a wonderful flavourful buffet of curries, vegetable delights, rices, pappadams and more … The beverage of choice here is lemon or lime ginger soda. My he fresh sneezed juice arrives in a few small pitchers and added to the glass … Honey is also available to sweeten the mix for those who want it … And a full big bottle of cold cold sparkling soda water to mix to the solution. We have been drinking them for several weeks now as a change from plain bottled mineral water.  
Bed time … Tomorrow morning up early to see the fish market for the locals … A walk in the jungle! Then breakfast, a houseboat ride and a home stay and local meal tomorrow night.  
The south trip has been amazing already!  
Namaste
Pamela

The Rickshaw and Sensory Overload

   

 RICKSHAW ride and other delights
A pleasant good evening from New Delhi and the Metropolitan Hotel and Spa. Today was EPIC!
We began with breakfast and a totally different variety to the breakfast buffet selection. We discussed plans for the day and my inability to reach the Women’s Only Taxi company for a tour. Sherry negotiated a private ride for nine women (the rest are already on a pre arranged tour of markets). Two tour vehicles, two drivers and one tour guide … At 11 a.m.
We saw some spectacular structures including temples and mosques and the smaller and original Taj Mahal of Delhi. We had lunch in an unauthentic bar and grill type restaurant that was pricey and also served very good food, and beverages. I had a vegetable biryani that was tasty and plentiful served in a stone crock. Wow …
After was the adventure to the old Delhi market. The ride through traffic in Delhi is pretty spectacular and a bit crazy … Honking … vehicles passing on both sides, pedestrians on the streets, tuktuk and rickshaw riders pulling major loads of goods, and all manner of trucks and other cars. It is loud and on the “other” side of the road from what we are used to. It is chaotic and many traffic circles and crossing of lanes … What lanes?? Lol
We arrived at the market and I confess I was at first reluctant to leave the safety of the comfortable van with competent driver. The view of the market, the poverty, the sights along the sides of the road, many many men, maybe some have never washed?? Dogs, monkeys everywhere. However, I was encouraged and I grabbed on to the arm of a travelling friend and decided I wanted to have the experience – I felt the fear and did it anyway. Off we ventured.
I dare say I will likely never experience anything again quite as intense as that walk along the markets — row upon row upon row of spices, foods, people, animals ….  
We walked through the retail and then wholesale sections — so very interesting, colourful, and loud. Every sense is on alert and active, absorbing sights, sounds, smells and textures. I purchased 4 large oranges from a small wagon stall, with the help of my travelling friend. We then shared a Rickshaw ride through some of the most colourful fabric and bright windows decorated with gold jewellery and bright gemstones …. Incredible and so very crowded. Every rickshaw had two people to pull, 5 in all, taking the 9 of us and tour guide through miles ??? Of market. It would have taken at least 45 minutes to an hour to walk …. and in the back of the rickshaw, pulled by a very fit man who worked very hard and negotiated through the densely populated alleys… We had the chance to take pictures and look at the sights. We decided to tip our driver and doubled his payment. Then as we exited and we’re leaving the market, I purchased the flag of India from a street vendor as a gift for my grandsons. One day I will tell them of my day in Delhi when I found the flag for them.  
On the outing today I saw cows, monkeys and even an elephant on the highway! I had to take my shoes off and walk around cold marble floor in a Temple and later in the day at a Mosque. I ate three meals of Indian cuisine in one day and drank several litres of water (still hydrating from the long flight).
Memorable and exhausting.  
The clothes arrived at the hotel at 7 pm …. that were carefully ordered and constructed from the visit to the Mantra Craft Mart fabric store of yesterday afternoon.  
Back to the same dining establishment went 4 of us ladies, to Hotel Saravana Bhavan … Then home to the hotel in a tuk tuk – I was in front again and hung on tight.
Nothing will feel as chaotic in the vehicle as the rickshaw ride of this afternoon. Maybe never again in my lifetime will I experience the sensations of this day. It will always be enough and memorable.
I feel centred and calm and a bit tired this evening as I write this. Ready for tomorrow morning early to join our tour of Royal India. Thanks for all the encouragement to come on this tour and for those who assist me everyday to show up and venture beyond my comfort zone.
As I sit in my silk pyjamas and robe freshly made in India, I bid you all a lovely evening and Namaste.
Pamela
  

Embarking on India

From book, Our Journey to India written by Sue Mead, Victoria BC 2009

Embarking on India
Reading a book written by a woman who ventured to India a few years ago. The book was borrowed from one of the gals, one of 17 of us, now booked for India next month.  
The book: Our Journey to India by author Sue Mead, 2009
She packed big rolls of toilet paper in her luggage, took the ferry over to Vancouver for her flight in a January day. Her plan was to go for a month, and take as little in her luggage as she could manage. Insect repellant, laundry powder, instant coffee, clothing, a sleeping bag and travel towel were a few items she had packed and checked through to New Delhi airport. They had a stop at London Heathrow and a previously arranged family meeting so they could go out for a good meal. Nice idea! Then they requested an upgrade and got it! Business class! Wow!  
They indeed popped malaria tablets as prescribed, with some wine and a meal. Oooops, luggage did not arrive as scheduled. They were greeted with pollution, traffic and honking as they rode into town. Not angry honks, just simple communication between vehicles.  
Then children start to swarm their cab. Oh dear … Those faces. Those fingers reaching in the open window. Garbage strewn about and animals foraged. Dogs, cows and goats. Even monkeys!  
Temporary shelters from scraps of cloth and cardboard seem to be homes for local families. Millions of people in unimaginable poverty live in India. Nothing prepares us for this sight.  
(“observe, not judge” would be my new motto to strive for on my upcoming trip. Observe and report to the blog. Shine a light on what I experience. Show up, strong and open. Feel the feelings and try to let them move through. See it, feel it and be changed by it.) Pamela 
Negotiating with a rickshaw before getting in. Know the fare and stick to it. A scarf pulled up over the mouth to reduce the taste of traffic.  
A leg-less beggar man with leprosy grabs at her leg, looking for money. Oh my! She is in tears. Deep breath. A young emaciated girl pushes her baby in their way, looking for a handout. “Young and old, aggressive and meek, leprous and maimed, all seemed to be here, working the crowd. To be found on every corner were vegetable stands, fortune tellers, sweet sellers, chai stalls, ear cleaners, pick pockets and holy cows.”  
Remember to bring a plug for the sink! For a wash …. And have a shower when you get a chance … Otherwise maybe do without? And “wash up” from a bucket. Argh …. 
(This book and the writing style, describing almost unbelievable experiences leave emotions raw … Very sad and then laugh out loud!) Pamela 
For two dollars an hour they hire a driver and car to take them around. The price for foreigners and locals is different, $.25 locals, $2.50 foreigners. Keep he difference and your privilege in mind! Foreigners are fortunate enough to pay even that higher sum.  
Trying to find clothes that fit the North American woman body shape seems more of a challenge, for the gal who lost her luggage in flight. Seems some locals wear jeans! I wonder where they purchase them?  
Eating, dining, always with the right hand and sitting on the left to keep it out of the way and not tempted to use left as a utensil! And the trick is to learn to not have sauce half way up the arm.  
How does one enjoy a vacation alongside the poverty, injustice and oppression? It seems the caste system is alive and visible to all that visit this country. Are there no social programs? And what do people get outraged about, if not human suffering in their midst? Humility and privilege … To find balance.  
One of the personal growth qualities to work on when planning a trip to India is patience. Develop and practice patience.  

KERALA: Kochi part two

History tells us that Vasco da Gama lived here and died here. I remember learning about him in school many many years ago. We saw his resting place: Vasco da Gama tomb. His remains were actually taken back to Lisbon, Portugal. He died 1500 something of cholera. The Catholic Church of St Francis is where this memorial exists. In the pews at time of service, the men sit together on the left side of the church and women on the right.  
Queen Elizabeth came to this church in the 1990s. Very plain church and under restoration at this time, however, we sat in it for a while and heard history. Holds 3,000 people at Christmas time when all, even Muslims come to service.  
Non electric fans in the church (operated manually) and there is a sprinkle of water so people get cool breeze. Victorian tiles on the floor are preserved and we take off our footwear in church as is custom in India. 
There is a 6 months monsoon season here. Sandalwood grows like bonsai. Essential oils made from sandalwood oil. And this tree is also used for cremations. Next to the Banyon tree, we saw teak wood growing also. We walked along the water again today, watching the fishing nets working, and enjoying a breeze from the water. There were a few huge old boilers, that came from Scotland.
As an added experience, we walked through a residential area. Bungalows are mansions here. White with fences, and gardens like plantations. Cinnamon, saffron, cardamom, and white tea are grown and mixed in a tea promising anti aging. We enjoyed the textures, sights, scents and some even tasted from Cinnamon trees, giant lemons, trees growing guava, dates, and tamarind. There are over 100 varieties of bananas in this area, used as a natural preventative for constipation. Papaya taken for digestion. Basil plants are holy and worshipped here.  
The music of the jungle sounds all around. Birdsong is tropical and exotic. Magic.
Henna leaves for tattoo … The henna ink is made from mixture of the crushed leaves and tamarind. 
Mango tree. Custard Apple. 
Vanilla Beans, grow like orchid but they are not an orchid. Have to pollinate by hand. 
Curry bean, curry leaf. For use in masala and spice. 

Pepper. Beetlenut orange fruit way up on tree. Neem trees, branches used in early times as a natural toothbrush. Maybe also is being researched to treat AIDS? And is great for skin care, apparently. 
We pick the leaves, roll in our fingers and smell the fragrance. We can almost taste it!  
Allspice leaves. Bariyani, tea, 
I spy three cows sleeping in grass on side of road.
Coffee plants. In a market stall we saw yams as big as an elephant foot. Golden bamboo has many uses. 
On the streets we see many Nuns and Fathers. Our guide explained that because of their work, there are less slums and homeless here, and less beggars in this area than the north. We saw a very old English cemetery.   
Trees of every variety including the Worlds living biggest Christmas tree! It is a huge umbrella tree and can provide shade for over 2000 people. People today waiting to be issued drivers license take shade under the tree. For two wheel license you have to be able to drive a figure 8. That is all. There is an instructor that they pay, 50 usd to in order to gain their license hassle free. Traffic inspector is here j dear the tree everyday for testing and issuing licenses. There is no written driving test, and no rules of the road here! Interesting!  
 We were shown the Jewish cemetery before a visit to the synagogue. It is all in an area called Jews Town. In reality there exists only 4 families, 6 people of Jewish faith left. Many of them returned to Israel a long time ago. The synagogue is under renovations now, however we heard the history and enjoyed the beautiful blue and white tiled floor and oil lamps that are all still used today. When there are ceremonies, the men occupy the main seating area, women the upper floor (balcony area at the back). If the women are elderly and or can’t use the stairs to get to the balcony, they have a seating area at the back of the men’s area, separate. Not very modern or integrated however it seems to the be culture still in this part of the world.  
We drove to the newer part of the city, New Town, and ventured into a local spice market … I got some ginger and it is tasty! (Hot and sweet with a bite!). Also some people picked up the cardomom pods, white tea, cinnamon, and saffron for making anti aging tea ( you boil a pinch of each ingredient together and drink it down for long life!). 
We had an authentic and tasty hot spicy lunch and then a rest in the warm afternoon, instead of yet more shopping! We are so pleased we did not discover the Jews Town shopping district 3-4 days ago when we arrived. Phew! Bankruptcy averted! Lol
This evening, omg … We were entertained with a very colourful and expressive story telling dance group, drumming, wild face painted …. The story was told with eye movements, body language, costumes and mudras of the fingers. What a cultural immersion! Kerala Traditional presentation of the Kathakali performance…. Wow!
This evening we are packing and preparing for onward drive tomorrow to visit a Hill Palace Museum in a community of Kumarakom. Sometime tomorrow we have a canoe ride at the largest fresh water lake in Kerala. The hotel is Soma Kerala Palace.  

Namaste, good night friends and family … Stay tuned for more India stories.   5 more days until I head home :). 

Pamela

KERALA ON TOUR

Kerala on tour! Several parts …. PART ONE
Last evening we walked on the boardwalk aside the Arabian Sea. The breeze was a welcome relief from the 35 degree plus heat of the day.  
On this West coast of India, Fort Kochi is a very important port. Ships coming and going. We enjoyed a view of the resting Fishing nets. 
Finally I see one cow on the beach here in the south. 
Tonight there are thousands of people on beach on a Sunday. It looks and feels like a festival … Kids running, squealing, playing, families together. Kids blowing bubbles, pinwheels for sale and sugar cane machine making juice. Lots of festive carts selling ice cream and goodies, and always people selling to tourists.  
Even though this town says it is illegal to smoke (they call it Gods country), there is an old man at a stool, with a large open trunk or box with a lid .. Inside stored cigarettes for sale. Apparently you can sell them, just not smoke them … Lol.
I love the slight head nod, head bobble like those dogs in the rear window of cars back home, memories of my youth. Here it means yes, OK, an acknowledgement. I saw it in the north and it seems to have followed us on tour now in the South. It is friendly and kind to see people talking and nodding at each other.  
Day one, full day we leave from the apartment hotel for a walk about with our tour guides. In addition to the churches and museums , we are treated to a horticultural adventure in the wealthier area of Kochi.  
Herbal gardens. Fruit trees. The wealthier people who own their property, also grow their own herbs and spices for personal and family consumption.  
Kochi is famous for goats. They are rummaging through garbage piles and in yards, and along roadways.  
Jackfruit trees with huge fruits hanging. Mimosa trees in bloom with pale pink flowers. Baseball being played in the green spaces. Boys in one field, girls playing in another.  
Cannonball flower tree blossoms are peach colour and used for medicines. Tamarind trees, people use the bark for spice. 
Men playing cards sitting in circle on a blanket in common areas like parks and sidewalks, with their shoes off.  
Rain ferns. More cannonball trees, this time, bright red flowers growing from bark of the trunk. 
Banyon trees over 500 yr old. Huge, and majestic.  
To be continued 🙂
Pamela