We’re meeting this morning at 11 AM to take a boat to Prison island.  It is Wednesday 30 August 2023 and I can hardly remember what day or date it is!  I have been gone almost two weeks, I am disoriented and travelling deep in the heart and soul of Africa.  

Jambo, the locals say, as a greeting here in Zanzibar.  Hakuna Matata means no worries … 

Jomba is our guide.   (His name means uncle) We walk together to the beach not far from our hotel – where we meet our captain. In a very small boat he will take us back and forth to prison island to see the giant tortoises. I have my bathing suit gear in my back pack, excited for this half day adventure.

Initially the seas are calm … unlike yesterday when we saw much higher surf splashing water to the shore and walkways.  Lots of boats going back-and-forth to the island. Lots of container ships and a few islands surrounded by beaches can be seen from our private small boat, a little bigger than a skiff. It seats the 7 of us including captain and guide, comfortably and with good balance.

We observe many many small and medium sized boats – some for hire, some fisher persons… some catamarans, a single solo person atop what looks like a long canoe (alone, standing, navigating the waters, no motor, like a stand up paddle canoe).  

I can see the beautiful white sandy beach ahead and the Prison island where we’re going to spend a few hours today. The colour of the water is beautiful light green turquoise blue, graduating to dark turquoise. Clear and so beautiful.  

Greetings from the local guides as we arrive … “slowly. Slowly”, reminding us to not hurry or rush, take our time.  And “Hakuna matata” Greetings encouraging a slow pace and to enjoy this special place.

There are three names of this island … Prison Island where in 1893 a prison was built.  Within very short time sickness of cholera and yellow fever broke out …the prison idea was abandoned.  It later became a restaurant to bring in tourists.  7 or 8 years ago they stopped that practice and very recently the island was sold privately.  It will become a hotel and restaurant once again to draw travellers to the area.

Another name is Changu Island …. So named for the unique fish in the area.  On the island are also exotic birds, including peacocks and fabulous old trees including the beautiful baobab.

The island also is famous for its home of many giant tortoises.  So it is also referred to as Tortoise Island.  These beautiful hard shelled creatures live to 200 years old, the oldest one we today meet is 150.  They are a giant land tortoise and vegetarian and make their homes on land, seeking water to drink and to rest when it is hot (like elephants they lay in the water nearby and their limbs are deep in the mud giving a cooling sensation).   The female has short tail, are smaller in stature and have more smooth and flat top shell.  The larger males, long tail used for balance and have a more hilly and valley type top shell.  When pregnant, the female digs a hole, plants the eggs and covers the area.  Three months later the young will hatch and climb out of the hole to begin their life here.  Tortoises of all ages live here now, the area is protected, as are the creatures, by the government.  This area is important to tourism in the area.  We are encouraged to feed greenery to the waiting mouths and to gently massage them in the neck, which they love.  Be careful, they can bite.

Moral of todays adventure ….to live a long happy life, be like the tortoise …. Be vegetarian and be very slow. 

I switch to bathing suit and find the sandy beach to enter the Indian Ocean.  The water is clear, warm ish, inviting, wavy and so beautiful and inviting.  I wish I could stay all day.  I watch a few beautiful locals or tourists women jump in the sea fully clothed and laughing.  They then hold hands and laugh so very hard some fall in the surf.  It is touching and sweet to watch the joy and intimacy- and be part of it with them.  

The tide is rapid and our small boat is ready to take us to Zanzibar island …. We must go.  The waves have increased, the seas are saucy and give us a good wet drenching on the way home.  I am exhilarated and love the experience more than I can say.

Out for dinner at the Sunset Bar at Africa House,  close by our hotel … early night.  We have an 8 hour day tomorrow on blue safari (which means journey) exploring the sea, with snorkeling and swimming.  I am so very thrilled.  

What an extraordinary treat!